2 more from Pipeline nov.2 ‘09 riding my 9′0 quad.

Pre surf arriving infront of JOB's house 730am ready to do it!

Waves were 8-12ft NW 10ft 16 sec 310 deg. Am Sesh was so much fun. Afternoon session I got drilled but Im OK! Thank you my guardian angel!!

More shots from my day at Pipeline nov.2.09

Beeline on a 9'0

What a great day of Surfing.

Nasty Wipeout.

Then I paid to play!

Heavy painful wipeout @Pipeline

I got smashed into the reef after airdropping into a 10ft wave at pipe on Nov 2.  I caught some realy nice waves in the morning before I paid my dues.

Shot by. Mana.

Painful walk up the beach. My tricep is swollen.

Oregon, Chicago, and Mavericks all in 10 days.

I just finished a 10 day trip visiting Oregon, Chicago, and San francisco.  I went up to Lincoln City, Oregon to compete in the Nellscott reef tow-in contest. I teamed up with Mark Visser.  The waves were fun.  Conditions were glassy with 10-12 ft waves. Its a great outer reef.  I’d like to go back and free surf Nellscott.  After Oregon I headed to Chicago for a red bull surf project.  It entails surfing the great lakes in the mid west.  This was my first time to Chicago. While there we toured the city.  Shot some portraits with photographer Brian Nevins.  I sup the cities river. I filmed some SUP and taught a news reporter how to SUP.  Ill be going back to the great lakes next year to do some surfing when the wind is blowing strong and creating waves.  I went to a nice blues bar and my accommodations at Sax hotel were plush.  I flew to SFO for the mavs opening ceremony.  It was great to see some old friends and meet some new ones.  I got to see my family as well. I stay in their guest room in HMB. I’m headed back home to Hawaii.  I don’t plan on doing too much more traveling. My only commitment is coming back to norcal to surf Mavericks.  I’m looking forward to staying put in Hawaii for the next 6 months.

Day in da life.

Slash and burn. Photo. Mana

Oct 12 ‘09

Woke up drank some Yerba mate, rolled down to my sisters house and checked the waves out front.  It was windy so I trained with Chris Taloa.  Made a steak and brocoli pasta lunch for a protein boost.  Surfed the end bowl at rocky lefts.  My favorite skate park on the NS.  Went to Yoga with my friend Donny Darnell. Came home to my T-bay condo and made a tuna sandwich.  Now I’m off to bed to do something similar tomorrow….

Training for the day that it counts.

I love pushing myself in and out of the water. Lately I’ve been doing Russian Kettlebell, and Systema strengthening  workouts.  I also do Yoga daily.

Rocky Point Ronnie end bowl.

Ive been surfing my favorite rippable wave in Hawaii the Rockies end bowl.  Waves have been 4ft…Been riding my new 5′3 quad fish made by Rusty… It works so good! Photo. Vince Street

Opening day @ Pipeline

I just returned home to Hawaii after traveling the globe for 6 months.  I was lucky to come home to perfect 8-10ft Pipeline.  Surfing in Puerto escondido all Summer gave me the confidence to bag a few Pipeline bombs.  Thank you Vince Street, Jamie Ballenger Owner Hawaiianwatershots.com, Bruno Lemos, and tommy@freedomridingcompany.com

Chile final blog

Letting go!

hello

It’s been almost a month spent in Chile. Today is July 15 ‘09.  We arrived here June 18 and will be departing back to CA on July 17.  We surfed various spots in the South from being fogged in at Matanza to carving it up at Buchipureo’s forgiving long left point.
I had one day of giant surf or semi big surf.  Punta De Lobos in Pichilemu got as big as 15 Ft one evening.  Too bad the conditions were so haggard from a strong 30 knot north wind.  We went out to Punta De Lobos for a gander.  It was super bumpy and challenging. I caught some super scary rides and was going so fast over the choppy surf. Mark Visser flew over from Aus to surf with me.  Hats off to him for his effort.  One of these days we will score together. It was another great chinese fire drill and more training for the two of us.
At the moment I have that surf stoked/surf out feeling going.  It will probably be 2 weeks before I surf any kind of real waves again.  Right now we are staying at Mando’s apt in Santiago.  Before this we were at his cabin in Buchipureo for a week.  It’s awesome hanging out with Mando!  He’s a super mellow older guy who has a two daughters and two twin boys. He was recently divorced. His children are a bit older now, allowing Mando more time to surf again.  He surfs with a goofy-foot smooth style.  He has traveled all over Chile surfing and is probably one of the most knowledgeable surfers in the country. As well as the coolest!
This trip has been great in learning about all the different point breaks in the South. It was my first time traveling in the South. I have a better understanding of the waves in chile as a whole. I have previously been to Northern Chile 3 times before this trip. I prefer southern Chile. Its much more beautiful and quiet. The South of Chile is old world to the fullest still! The local fishermen still use two huge Ox to pul their authentic Chilean boats up the beach. It’s their equivalent two a modern quad motorcycle.  You can find a variety of waves south of Santiago.   I often surfed with no more then 5 guys out sometimes by myself. The waves I rode were the longest leg burning rides of my life.
Next on my plate is getting my 15 Ft. enclosed trailer packed and ready to ship to Puerto Escondido. Ill be shipping my ski along with some of Balti’s things down to Puerto to permanently live there.  I’ll be flying down to Puerto for a 2 month stay. Super excited!  Plenty of warm water barrels await me and Ariel.  Ariel will continue to document my surf sessions and create webisodes as well as collect footage to one day create a movie on my surf exploits.
July 18 ‘09 9 am mid flight from Dallas, Texas to LAX…
Small change in plans since I last wrote the previous blog.  Upon departing from Chile yesterday, Rusty Long and I were monitoring a serious 19 second interval swell to hit Puerto Escondio on Fri July 24. After closely reviewing all our reliable weather forecasting sites we both booked tickets to fly down to Puerto Escondido on Tues July 21. It’s on!!  Swell, period, and winds look perfect.  For me it’s going to be a strike mission. I’ll fly down with Rusty and Ariel on tues July 21 and fly back Fri afternoon July 24. Why so short?  I have to be in Huntington Beach for the US open to sign Autographs for Invisalyn.  It will all be worth it!!  I forgot to mention as I write this Im on my final flight segment from Chile via Texas to L.A.
Time to store the winter clothes, 4×3 wetsuits, booties,and bust out the board shorts. It’s going to feel awesome to warm up in Mexico after a month of chilly weather in Chile!
Stay tuned for the Puerto Escondido update!
Aloha,
Sterls

Letting go!

hello

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