POV w/Go Pro HD framegrab July 4’10 ZiCaTeLa, MX

Riding and 8'3 on a 8ft wave in Pto Escondido July 4'10, Mexico.

Me w/new 6'3 Rusty surfboard. Artwork by Taylor Deville

Zicatela beachbreak tubos.

I’ve been down in Puerto Escondido, Mexico for 6 weeks!  Its been fun.  Great waves and good times with friends.  Heres a sequence shot by Ariel Willeford.  I love Zicatela!

Fruits of my labor.

CheeEheEE

Eyes on the prize

Jet sking w/bottlenose dolphins.

Heres a cool frame grab from my go pro camera with some bottle nose dolphins swimming along side my jet ski in Mexico.  I’m in the process of breaking in my new Yamaha high output 4 stroke engine in.

Wipe Out at Waimea Bay

Wipe Out at Waimea Bay.

Chile, Pichilemu 4/30/10

Practicing for Quiksilver ceremonial Big Wave contest

Chile Blog 1.  April 30 ’10

Its my 7th time to Chile.  I guess you could say Im a fan of the cold water Indonesia, as I like to call it.  Why do I call it that?  Well, Its waves are 80% lefts and yes its cold and chilly.  Chile is one the places where I can find every type of wave that there is to surf. Slabs, point breaks, beach breaks, reefs, almost waves i.e. like if we could only blow that one rock up it would be rideable.  Not only does the variety of waves allude me, but the minimal crowds and consistency of the coastline is a main ingredient.  Oh yea me being a goofy foot and be surrounded by endless lefts with practically no one out is a dream situation.  On top of all that the culture, the friends I have here, and the food.  Its all good!

I’m based in Pichilemu right now.  I’m staying in my friend Diego Medina’s guest cabana w/my girlfriend Sheila. It sits on the beach in front of Punta de lobos.  Punta de lobos is one of Chile’s premier big wave spots.  Its a left hand point break.  It can hold waves as big as 7 meters= 25 ft+.

My main purpose here in Chile is to compete in the Quiksilver ceremonial Punta De Lobos big wave invitational.   We are in the middle of the 2 month waiting period.  Event organizers want to wait for a 5-7 meter =15-25 ft swell.  It will be my first time competing at this surf spot.  I thought it was a good idea to come down here early and practice at Lobos.  I’ve also been surfing some other amazing waves in the local area.

Diego Medina has been a great host.  I’ve been able to tag along with him and get the inside scoop of where to surf as well as where to eat etc.  I have 31 more days in Chile. I’m sure there will be some adventures to write about along with some cool point of view photos that my girlfriend and Ill be taking.

Aloha
Jamie

2 more from Pipeline nov.2 ’09 riding my 9’0 quad.

Pre surf arriving infront of JOB's house 730am ready to do it!

Waves were 8-12ft NW 10ft 16 sec 310 deg. Am Sesh was so much fun. Afternoon session I got drilled but Im OK! Thank you my guardian angel!!

More shots from my day at Pipeline nov.2.09

Beeline on a 9'0

What a great day of Surfing.

Nasty Wipeout.

Then I paid to play!

Heavy painful wipeout @Pipeline

I got smashed into the reef after airdropping into a 10ft wave at pipe on Nov 2.  I caught some realy nice waves in the morning before I paid my dues.

Shot by. Mana.

Painful walk up the beach. My tricep is swollen.

Oregon, Chicago, and Mavericks all in 10 days.

I just finished a 10 day trip visiting Oregon, Chicago, and San francisco.  I went up to Lincoln City, Oregon to compete in the Nellscott reef tow-in contest. I teamed up with Mark Visser.  The waves were fun.  Conditions were glassy with 10-12 ft waves. Its a great outer reef.  I’d like to go back and free surf Nellscott.  After Oregon I headed to Chicago for a red bull surf project.  It entails surfing the great lakes in the mid west.  This was my first time to Chicago. While there we toured the city.  Shot some portraits with photographer Brian Nevins.  I sup the cities river. I filmed some SUP and taught a news reporter how to SUP.  Ill be going back to the great lakes next year to do some surfing when the wind is blowing strong and creating waves.  I went to a nice blues bar and my accommodations at Sax hotel were plush.  I flew to SFO for the mavs opening ceremony.  It was great to see some old friends and meet some new ones.  I got to see my family as well. I stay in their guest room in HMB. I’m headed back home to Hawaii.  I don’t plan on doing too much more traveling. My only commitment is coming back to norcal to surf Mavericks.  I’m looking forward to staying put in Hawaii for the next 6 months.

Day in da life.

Slash and burn. Photo. Mana

Oct 12 ’09

Woke up drank some Yerba mate, rolled down to my sisters house and checked the waves out front.  It was windy so I trained with Chris Taloa.  Made a steak and brocoli pasta lunch for a protein boost.  Surfed the end bowl at rocky lefts.  My favorite skate park on the NS.  Went to Yoga with my friend Donny Darnell. Came home to my T-bay condo and made a tuna sandwich.  Now I’m off to bed to do something similar tomorrow….